TorontoFoodLab

This topic may be one that is overdrawn and beat to death and back, but it is a theme that has been central to my thoughts for the past week. The first few paragraphs seem a bit off topic, but read through it and it will all make sense in the end.

It was a regular Monday. Like all Mondays it took a bit of time to get back into the swing of things. Nothing unusual. However, as that day progressed I found myself pre-occupied with a single question: what the hell was I thinking choosing this career path? I could have continued with a graduate degree in psychology and charge $200 for advice their friends could give for free. I could have been a guidance councilor and quietly laugh at so-called problems teenagers have. I could have done something else.

I tried to shake off these thoughts. Picked up my go-to book for food inspirations, the Alinea cook book. Didn’t do anything. The usual excitement and enthusiasm the book provoke were non-existent. Instead, each image, each recipe, were met with nothing more than numbing apathy. Looked at other books, nothing to see there either.

I put down the book and thought maybe this really isn’t the right path. It’s not too late to go back to psychology.

Then I felt a little hungry. I haven’t had lunch. So finding the most convenient way to consume some calories, I  placed an egg in an already running water bath at 63c. Waited about 40 minutes for it then cracked it open into a bowl. Drizzled some sweet soy sauce I had made earlier. Cut into it with a spoon and the yolk oozed out. “Looks about right” I thought to myself. Then, with that first bite my heart stopped. My eyes were wide open and for a moment, I even forgot to breathe. Holy sh*t!

Yes, this is definitely what I want to do. Cooking is definitely what excites me. This is what I love.

People always tell you to follow your desires and passions. Not a lot of people will say that while on that path, you will doubt yourself, question why you’re even there, and at times, quit. It’s OK…it’s normal. Just. Keep. Going.

Let me leave you with this video about following your desires.

Ladies and gents, pardon the hiatus. After a crazy getaway in Philippines, and sorting stuff out with work when I got back, I can finally start posting again.

First off, we are considering moving the Lab to downtown Toronto. Currently evaluating the cost vs benefits of such endeavor. I know that if we do move downtown, the lab will need to find a place with enough room for a 12 seat dining space. Monthly tastings anyone? Featured chefs? The chance for chefs to do dinners while outside their restaurants and use the Toronto Food Lab equipment? I hope this plan pulls through.

Second, currently in the works is a mushroom and bone marrow gel. Thankfully mushroom puree and bone marrow are not difficult to emulsify on their own. I do however, want to turn it into a really soft hot gel that has a similar texture to warm bone marrow. Also, I don’t want to use methocel for this one.

Third, some photos of dinner that was prepared in Philippines. This time, better prepared (or at least better understanding of the challenges of cooking in the Philippines). The dinner, in general, took a step back in the number of components per dish, and instead focused on well established flavour pairings. Again, I cooked with some of the local uni. When it’s priced at $10.00 per pound, it’s too tempting not to play around with it.

First off is crispy chicken floss – sesame seeds and toasted sesame oil, honey, salt. Inspired from the greasy lemon chicken you order at Taste of China at 3am except of course, without the lemon. Sous vide at 60C for 4 hours, pulled to threads, deep fried.

lightly marinated raw shrimp (sweet soy, mirin), cold smoked, and wakame powder and nasturtium from my parents back yard.

As a side note, people there say that eating 5 nasturtium leaves a day helps lower blood pressure. Any one know more about this?

Uni and dashi scrambled eggs, ikkura, sweet soy, shitake powder, toasted wakame chips

And this was supposed to be the edible perfume. Unfortunately the spray bottles did not arrive on time before I left Toronto. So this had to do. Diners were instructed NOT to swallow the liquid, but rather to place on the tongue, swirl the liquid around and exhale. After the burning/cooling sensation of evaporating alcohol, you are bombarded with intense flavours of the infusions. In this case, clove, vanilla, cinnamon.

That is it for now. One thing for sure, I’m glad to be back at work.

Just a quick follow-up on last week’s eggless custard using lambda and iota. In that post I mentioned that you can make creme anglais using just lambda. So I decided to make some with the left over cream base. I know many chefs also make creme anglais with a lower fat content (10% or 18% cream). In those cases you can compensate by increasing the amount of lambda to 2g per 500g of cream base.

Recipe is as follows:

500g base ( 450g 35% cream, 50g sugar)

1g or 0.2% PureLux (Lambda carrageenan)

Here is a close up of the creme anglais. Just to show the sheen and thickness. The thickness can be easily adjusted by the amount of lambda. Also, if you just happen to make a batch that was too thick, just put it in the vitamix and add more cream base until you’re happy. Just make sure it’s at the lowest setting!!!

Additional thoughts:

I just want to add that there really are many ways to achieve similar results. I know that creme anglais in traditional terms is a cream sauce thickened by egg yolks. Moving away from tradition, you could say it is simply thickened cream. There are many ways to achieve that. This is just ONE of many. Chefs may prefer to use the classic technique because they like the flavour egg yolks impart, and I can completely agree with that. In fact, I love the flavour of egg yolks. But what if some chefs don’t want to have that flavour, or if they are making it for someone vegetarian or has an egg allergy? Again, this is just one of many methods to make thickened cream.

Today was nice! Got to cook after all the paperwork that had to be done. Decided to crisp up this braised brisket that’s been sitting in the fridge. Roasted parsnip puree, sauteed cauliflower puree, kozlik’s sweet and smokey mustard and brown butter. The radish is just to further accent the mustard as well as to balance the fatty brisket. 

Good News everyone! All GPI’s ingredients are now available for ordering through Toronto Food Lab. In order to keep prices extremely competitive, we are gladly offering them at 1 lb orders. I think you’ll find the prices to be very good. Check out the available ingredients pages at the top.

If you are a distributor and wish to form a partnership, please contact me via nicholo.plaza@gpiglobal.com to discuss.

CarraPure Kokumi (iota carrageenan)                   $25.00 / lb

CarraPure Kappa (kappa carrageenan)                  $25.00 / lb

CarraPure Lux (Lambda Carrageenan)                   $40.00 / lb

CarraPure FlexiGel (Gum blend)                               $32.00 / lb

H-Gell (High Acyl Gellan)                                              $52.00 / lb

L-Gell (Low Acyl Gellan)                                                $55.00 / lb

PureXan (Xanthan Gum)                                                $18.00 / lb

AlkaGel (Konjac Gum)                                                     $24.00 / lb

PureAlgin (Sodium Alginate)                                       $20.00 / lb

PureLBG (RefinedLocust Bean Gum)                         $50.00 / lb

PureGuar (Guar Gum)                                                      $18.00 / lb