I’ve been having a 63 degree eggs for the past few weeks now. There’s just something about that velvety, rich yolk that I can’t resist. Part of it reminds me of childhood and just how much of these 2 ingredients I devoured.
Few weeks back I took a trip to Tokyo to work with a chef writing a cookbook for molecular gastronomy. I will always remember that perfect egg I had in Japan. The yolk was so rich it was a deep orange colour. It really blew me away. And I think because of that experience, I will always try to incorporate some Japanese influence on an egg dish…as well as bacon!
Here is a 63 Celsius egg, sweet ponzu soy, miso and wakame puree, ikkura, bacon “crumble”.
The crumble was a trial. Alex Talbot from Ideas in Food mentioned to me that when people incorporate tapioca maltodextrin with fat, they don’t add anything else; just fat. He suggested adding fried bread crumbs. So I did. Once the fat was rendered, I fried some panko in the fat before cooling it and mixing with N-Zorbit. This was good!!! The crumbs add a very nice delicate crisp and definitely adds more textural depth to this component. It also masks the slight stickiness you get from tapioca maltodextrin. Thanks Alex!
This dish still needs a lot of work though. There’s a bit of a competition between the bacon and the ikkura and as a result, confuses it’s identity. This dish will be revisited soon.
Something I made a few weeks ago. Funny how the component that takes the most time to make are the ones that aren’t the center of attention – the reduction and the mushroom butter.
So let’s get straight to it. What did I do to the reduction and mushroom butter? Here it is.
First, the reduction is made the traditional way of roasting the bones, vegetables, and making a stock from it. Mind you, I think I had equal amounts of bone to water at the beginning. This step alone takes at least 8 hours. I can’t leave the stove turned on overnight so I had to do it over 2 work days. Then collect the stock, and partially reduce it. Just so I can actually put it all in the centrifuge vials. Once that’s done, I centrifuge it to remove all the solids, aka scum. What happens is you now have stock that is free of any solids and has the smoothest mouthfeel ever. After that, reduce it to the point where it resembles tar. That dark, thick beautiful substance that can blow minds. At the end, add a nub of butter, swirl, and done! Well, not quite yet. Put 100ml of that reduction into a beaker, and blitz it in the SonicPrep. Why? It changes the mouthfeel. It makes it even more velvety. Also, it’s not as quick to get sticky when it cools down. The colour also changes into a creamy dark brown.
Comparatively, the mushroom butter is less involving. First, brown some portobello and oyster mushrooms. The more browning, the better. Then freeze it overnight before heading to freeze dry for 2 days. Once its as dry as British humour, turn it to dust using a vitamix blender. Then just add it with melted butter.
See, I don’t even want to bother talking about the ox tail itself. But let me just say, it was damn good.